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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: Jayco Designer
I have a few things, but nothing really that sharp. I do have some bubbles or slight wrinkles. I would have the sharp spots looked at.
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CHV_FRK
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07/02/08 09:53pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Hitching Up?
You should have a manual trailer brake lever on your controller. I get lined up, adjust my height. I use Rotochoks, they are the first thing on when stopped and the last thing off before I go. Can't mess it up that way. BUT! I still use the manual lockup when hitching and unhitching. Good luck..
Man we miss living in Springfield!
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CHV_FRK
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07/02/08 09:40pm |
Towing
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RE: Living in a Cul de sac
I go past and back down. It's practice, but makes me look really good at the campsite. I was told a couple of days ago that I "must be a trucker because I did that so well". My reply, "Nope. I work on a computer all day! Thanks though."
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CHV_FRK
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06/30/08 11:55am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Hi Everybody!!
That thing is awsome! Maybe we should have scaled back?? :)
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CHV_FRK
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06/30/08 11:53am |
Beginning RVing
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RE: 5th wheel chocks
Another BIG thumbs up for the RotoChoks! Also, if you get another trailer with different wheel spacing they will just sell you the plastic inserts for your set.
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CHV_FRK
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06/30/08 11:47am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Quickie Flush Works !
There is no reason you can't use the Quickie Flush or the Tornado as a Flush King. Just leave the drain valve closed and let the flusher fill the tank, then open the valve. Presto, everything runs out just like the Flush King. No need to have both.
That's what I have done, even yesterday. It does take a while longer though since it's alot more restricted. We sprayed and sprayed....then closed the valve, filled, and dumped 3 more times with only the last time coming clean. Definately do this where you have your own sewer hookup.....or at midnight at the group dump station!
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CHV_FRK
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06/30/08 06:36am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: glass shower doors
I used CLR as it was more of a water quality issue.
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CHV_FRK
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06/30/08 06:28am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Chevy 1/2T & 3/4T mpg comparison - identical loads
My 07.5 6.6L with a 3500lb trailer would gets about 18 on the highway at 70mpg. I just got back from a weekend at a state park about 200 miles away. Our trailer is at about 13K, so combined I'm at 22K, and I averaged 12.5 with a regen in there (13.5 before that darn regen). I have 3.73s as well. I can vouch for the 15 as my buddys highwall popup is a little under 4000 and get got 15 on the way home. The 08s also have active fuel management which will rarely kick in while towing.
As of yesterday gas was 3.85 here (3.85/15=.2566) and diesel was 4.44 (4.44/18=.2466) I saved a penny. WOOO HOOO... but I guess I spent another 10K! On the plus side I can tow my 5th wheel and get 23 unloaded on the highway. The highest my buddy gets is 19-20.
As stated, it really depends what you do with it. You won't get the same gas mileage with a 3,500lb empty enclosed car hauler.
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CHV_FRK
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06/30/08 06:22am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Designer 35RLTS and Jayco Talk...Thanks Frank!!
Well, we just got back from what was to be a float trip.....quick storm rolled in at 2am. I saw the lighting and ran for the awning. Got a couple of the lights down when the awning was whipped up out of my reach and billowed up about 3 feet up racking the arms. I had to rip the rest of my $50 stinkin lights down tearing all the light connections. Then the awning never seemed so slow. I had to stop once and back up due to binding. What excitement. They said they recorded as high as 85mph winds but the campsite saw 70. The spot next to us was a father and two sons in a tent. After yelling at them twice I had to run out to get them and bring them inside. Their screen room blew up into the woods and the tent was trashed. They stayed the night and we made them breakfast since they were going to have a long day of cleaning up.
Anyway, has anyone here done the Digital Thermostat mod? It does not wire up like they show. Mine needs the positive wire used to get it to work....at least testing the wires....but then when I hooked up the new thermostat nothing works. I checked everything and I'm sure of the wiring.... but like I said the RH RC needs to be positive and not ground as shown. I think I have a problem with the new thermostat, but I just wanted to check with someone else here.
Thanks guys.... Good to hear things are going well loydt.
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CHV_FRK
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06/29/08 09:33pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Designer 35RLTS and Jayco Talk...Thanks Frank!!
Yeah... looking side by side we would have done the same. If they are doing the RLSA, with success of the RLTS maybe they will offer that one as well. Then I could buy a spare trailer!
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CHV_FRK
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06/23/08 09:27am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Designer 35RLTS and Jayco Talk...Thanks Frank!!
Darn....I could have saved 15-20K!!!
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CHV_FRK
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06/23/08 08:24am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Designer 35RLTS and Jayco Talk...Thanks Frank!!
Haven't gotten underneath ours yet really. I want to drop some of the underbelly and survey where everything is and see what needs any additional support. I was thinking of waiting until I spring for the JT stabilizers. I think our units are pretty good on movement, but it could always be a little better.
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CHV_FRK
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06/22/08 11:43am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Designer 35RLTS and Jayco Talk...Thanks Frank!!
Well I've finally posted the Convection Oven Venting Mod I did a while ago. Here is the link.
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CHV_FRK
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06/22/08 08:44am |
Fifth-Wheels
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How to: Exterior Convention Oven Venting - Jayco Designer
Well, after figureing out that they put an exterior vent on my fifth wheel, but it didn't really vent to the exterior it finally started to bother me. After loading up for a trip and having a little time to burn I decided to take a crack at it. I've had this mod for 6 months now with no issues.
Please note this will only vent the stove top vent. The heat from the convection oven will still vent to the interior. This is to cool the upper casing. Mounted to a cabinet, you still want that!
As you can see I started by removing the cabinet door above the convection oven. I unplugged the unit from the outlet above.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z61/chvfrk98/Convection%20Oven%20Venting/Conv-Vent01.jpg
There are 4 allen head machine screws holding the microwave unit in place. Two on the top of the header panel and two inside the cabinet itself.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z61/chvfrk98/Convection%20Oven%20Venting/Conv-Vent02.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z61/chvfrk98/Convection%20Oven%20Venting/Conv-Vent03.jpg
First lay down some counter protection, I used a small area rug face down. Then I used a future mod to suppport the unit while I removed the four mounting screws. Once those screws are removed you will need to support the front of the unit while you removed the temporary support. The back of the unit is supported by a backing plate mounted to the wall. Lower the front of the unit slightly to lift the rear off the bracket. If you lower the front too far you will bend the mounting tabs on the bracket. If you do this just make sure to bend them back. You can now set the unit on the counter. Fish the remaining cord through the hole in the cabinet.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z61/chvfrk98/Convection%20Oven%20Venting/Conv-Vent04.jpg
The header panel can be removed for a little more access by removing a few phillips screws from underneath the panel.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z61/chvfrk98/Convection%20Oven%20Venting/Conv-Vent05.jpg
Once you look at the back of the unit it is clearly visible why the center vented microwave vent in the wall and the side vented convection oven do not work together and Jayco installed these units internally vented.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z61/chvfrk98/Convection%20Oven%20Venting/Conv-Vent06.jpg
Removing two phillips screws from the top of the diverter panel you can not remove it.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z61/chvfrk98/Convection%20Oven%20Venting/Conv-Vent07.jpg
Flipping this panel over changes the unit from interior to exterior venting.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z61/chvfrk98/Convection%20Oven%20Venting/Conv-Vent08.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z61/chvfrk98/Convection%20Oven%20Venting/Conv-Vent09.jpg
Reinstall the panel and install two screws.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z61/chvfrk98/Convection%20Oven%20Venting/Conv-Vent10.jpg
Moving on to the wall, looking at the bracket you can see that there is very little overlap between the backing plate venting and the exterior vent. Take a marker and outline this area as well as the sides of the plate. This will help in realignment later. I actually had two sets of holes. I assume it was installed at the factory and needed to be moved over a 1/4" later.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z61/chvfrk98/Convection%20Oven%20Venting/Conv-Vent12.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z61/chvfrk98/Convection%20Oven%20Venting/Conv-Vent13.jpg
Using a dremel I set the depth to about 3/4" less than the depth of the vent and proceeded to trim out the outlined exhaust area in the wall. Be careful and go slow!!! I had no wires in this area, but did hit just the edge of a little horizontal cross framing, just taking about 1/16" off a crossing piece. I see no issue with this, but if you hit something stop and dig out the area to expose what you are hitting. Cutting a vertical member is NOT acceptable. If this is the case cover your area, flip your diverter back and reinstall your unit with internal venting. If you can continue, you will also need to trim the side of the external vent to allow flow into the plastic vent area.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z61/chvfrk98/Convection%20Oven%20Venting/Conv-Vent14.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z61/chvfrk98/Convection%20Oven%20Venting/Conv-Vent15.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z61/chvfrk98/Convection%20Oven%20Venting/Conv-Vent16.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z61/chvfrk98/Convection%20Oven%20Venting/Conv-Vent17.jpg
You will need a good foil backed tape for ductwork and some self-stick weather stripping. I used 5/16". This size worked well in the tight areas where a thicker tape would have been an issue.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z61/chvfrk98/Convection%20Oven%20Venting/Conv-Vent18.jpg
Using the foil tape begin covering the exposed area starting from the inside and overlapping to the outsides of your cut. Think of which way the air is flowing, this should make sense.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z61/chvfrk98/Convection%20Oven%20Venting/Conv-Vent19.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z61/chvfrk98/Convection%20Oven%20Venting/Conv-Vent20.jpg
Now begin laying down the weather stripping as I've shown here around the exterior of your venting areas. This will seal your exhaust air from migrating back down the wall into the unit.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z61/chvfrk98/Convection%20Oven%20Venting/Conv-Vent21.jpg
Install you backing plate to the alignment marks made before removal. If you notice, I ended up having to trim the weatherstipping above the backing plate once mounted. This was due to the reinstalltion of the header panel. First see if your panel will line up with your original screw holes with the weatherstripping in place. If not, trim your weatherstipping as I did.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z61/chvfrk98/Convection%20Oven%20Venting/Conv-Vent22.jpg
Using more foil tape seal over the upper area prior to reinstallation of the header panel. If yours fit as tight as mine you will need to make sure that you get it pressed into the corners well otherwise when you reinstall the panel you will tear the tape. Reinstall header panel with phillips screws.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z61/chvfrk98/Convection%20Oven%20Venting/Conv-Vent23.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z61/chvfrk98/Convection%20Oven%20Venting/Conv-Vent24.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z61/chvfrk98/Convection%20Oven%20Venting/Conv-Vent25.jpg
Reinstall of the convection oven is the reverse. Begin fishing your power cord through the hole. At this point it would help of have someone pulling the cable through as you lift the unit. Lift the unit and place the rear on the lip of the backing panel. The lips should latch into the bottom of the unit and raise the front. Support the front fo the unit as before. I used a box. Reinstall the allen head screws and washer. Tighten securely. Plug in the outlet in the cabinet.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z61/chvfrk98/Convection%20Oven%20Venting/Conv-Vent26.jpg
Make sure to unlock the latches on the external vent. You may not turn on the vent. What a glorious site! Congratulations.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z61/chvfrk98/Convection%20Oven%20Venting/Conv-Vent27.jpg
This takes care of the venting. Now I'm looking to deal with the fact that the vent is so far back from the stove. I'm looking to breaks some sheet metal and make an extension for the range to be able to pick up the moisture and smell and insure that I remove everything I can while cooking. I will let you know if I ever get to that!
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CHV_FRK
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06/22/08 08:40am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Designer 35RLTS and Jayco Talk...Thanks Frank!!
Correct. It will not open as far as it did prior, but it will still open far enough that the fan will run unrestricted. I have no issues with airflow. You will be fine.
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CHV_FRK
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06/22/08 07:26am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Designer 35RLTS and Jayco Talk...Thanks Frank!!
I think I have the maxair model 600. It's the high flow one. You're vent will open as far as before, but that doesn't matter. The motor will automatically stop when it hits it's limit. I even put one on the bathroom fan a month ago. They work great and I can just leave it open while in storage. Doesn't bake the interior.
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CHV_FRK
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06/22/08 06:46am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Need Advice on Holding Tanks! That Fell!
I will not ever completely fill my tanks until I'm close to my destination for this specific reason. There's alot of bouncing around going on back there with at least 600lbs of water. Good luck
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CHV_FRK
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06/21/08 03:08pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Truck AC blew up!
I'd agree that it was probably over tightened.
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CHV_FRK
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06/20/08 09:52pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Designer 35RLTS and Jayco Talk...Thanks Frank!!
For those of you who were concerned with your heat distribution, the fix is relatively simple. You can access everything right behind the access panels in the basement area. I tied ours in to the rear with a 6" tee to the second tap right at the rear trunk. This avoided adding another tap. There is also not alot of room for a third tap. The second tap on the forward duct can be sealed off with sheet metal and metallic tape.
Photobucket is extremely flaky. Can someone recommend another free site for easily posting pics?
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CHV_FRK
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06/19/08 08:01am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Insulated windows
That's what they said. Although I've seen other posts that it does not work for some models.
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CHV_FRK
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06/18/08 05:34am |
Fifth-Wheels
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